June 1826
1st June/26. Thursday; - having to preach in the regular week day course this evening at Chateau-belair, a plan had been previously arranged for all the brethren on this island to accompany me thither, preparatory to a visit to the "Souffrier" next morning. They came, dined with us & we all set off together in a large canoe. Brother R preached & we all lodged as we could; no very difficult matter in this country in a temperature of 70 or more in the night time & not many mosquitoes [sic].
2nd Arose about day break, took a cup of coffee & mounted horses or mules, provided for us by our friend Mr. Fortmaison. The weather was wet, but we were resolved to make an attempt to ascend the side of the volcanic mountain. Rode pleasantly to Wallibo Estate, and then was exposed to a severe shower that soon made us very uncomfortable: meantime our canoe arrived, was hauled ashore & our fine oarsmen with a few necessaries, set forward towards the base of the mountain. Being mounted, we soon headed the train, and found the road both narrow, & difficult from brushwood, chiefly roseaus many feet high. Then we had to pass through a long tough and closely netted grass, that was very troublesome as it entangled our feet on either side as we sat on our horses. At length we reached the "half way tree"; rather disappointed that our progress amounted to no more. A little beyond this tree & the last place where forage could be found for our weary "cattle", we alighted and refreshed ourselves with bread & porter. The remainder of our journey was to be performed on foot, over slippery moss, owing to the rain and rugged rocks covered and intermingled with small calcined gravel. The ascent was steep and it took a long time to arrive at the top/ though the distance seemed to be but short, as we every few minutes lifted up our heads to measure it, as we paused to rest our weary limbs, or gain a little breath. The clouds being very low, and the mountains "capt" therewith, on looking around us and to the plains below, we seemed to be in the midst of an immense lake, perched on a central rock. This was only a transient scene; the fierce wind dispersed the dense mist, and in turn we beheld the varied landscape. Still advancing, we gained the summit, which we found to be the abrupt edge of the "old crater", said by Baron Humboldt, in his personal narrative, to have emitted flames in the year 1718, but on what authority he states this, is not yet satisfactorily ascertained. On the 27th April 1812, a dreadful eruption burst forth, and then originated a second or what is commonly termed the "new crater". Previous to this event, according to the best accounts, which are here consolidated, the appearance of this mountain, was singularly romantic, the crater was half a mile in diameter and 500 feet in depth; in the centre of this hollow was a conical hill, 200 feet in diameter, & 300 in height, the lower half of which was fringed with brushwood, shrubs & vines, while the upper was strewed with virgin sulphur, at the base of it were two small lakes, the one sulphurous & aluminous, the other pure & tasteless; from the fissures of the cone a thin white smoke exhaled, occasionally tinged with a light blue flame. Evergreens, flowers aromatic shrubs, and many alpine plants clothed the steep side of the crater, and from its external base nearby to the summit, the mountain was covered with an exuberant growth of forest trees (Shephard's St. Vincent). The best account yet published of the eruption of the Souffrier in 1812 is the one contained in Shephard's Historical account of St. Vincent; and is as follows. "This mountain (the Souffrier) is situated at the northern extremity of the island, and is the last of a chain, which was called Morne a Garou, by the natives, and is about 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The first indication of its disturbed state was a severe concussion of the earth, a tremendous noise in the air, and the bursting forth of a vast column of thick black smoke from the crater. Volumes of sand and favillae darkened the air like a heavy storm of rain, and covered the woods, ridges and cane pieces, with light gray ashes, resembling snow thinly strewed with dust, which speedily destroyed every appearance of vegetation, for three days all these symptoms continued to increase, during this, the sun seemed to be in a total eclipse, the sea was discoloured, the ground bore a wintry appearance from the thick crust of fallen ashes, & the cattle were starving for the want of their accustomed food. On the 30th at noon, the column of smoke assumed a sanguine hue, rose with a livelier motion, and dilated itself more extensively, the noise became incessant with a vibration that affected the feelings & hearing; the Caribs who were resident at Morne Rhonde, fled from their houses to Kingstown, and the Negroes from their work and the very birds were beaten to the earth overpowered by the sand and stones projected from the mountain. At length, just as the day closed the flame burst forth pyramidically from the crater, the thunder now grew deafening, and electric flashes, some like rockets, and some like shells darting in all directions, and in all forms, illumined the immense column of smoke, which hung over the volcano. In a short time the lava poured out on the north west side, it was opposed there by the acclivity of a higher point of land, but being driven on by fresh accessions, it ascended and surmounted the obstacle, forming the figure V in a torrent of fire, plunged over the cliff, carrying down rocks & woods in its course, & finally precipitating itself into a vast ravine at the foot of Morne Rhonde; all this while large globular bodies of fire were exploded from the crater, which burst, and either fell back into it, or among the surrounding bushes, which were instantly in a blaze; in about 4 hours the torrent of lava reached the sea, & shortly after, another stream descended eastward towards Rabbacca. The island was now shaken by an earthquake, it was followed by a shower of cinders which fell like hail for two hours, and this was followed by a fall of stones mingled with fire, which continued for an hour. Many houses were set on fire, many Negroes were wounded, and some were killed, but happily the weight of the stones bore no proportion to their magnitude, or the sufferers from them would have been still more numerous than they were. At length in the afternoon of the 1st May, the eruptions ceased, and a solemn silence ensued: the volcano, however, still burned and on the 9th June, it again gave alarming signs of activity, but nothing more occurred than the throwing up of a quantity of stones, and ashes, which fell back into the abyss from whence they came. All the former beauty of the Souffriere was of course destroyed, the conical mount disappeared, and an extensive lake of yellow colored water, whose agitated waves perpetually threw up vast quantities of black sand, supplied it place. A new crater was formed on the north east of the original one, and the face of the mountain was entirely changed, many of the adjoining ravines were filled up, particularly Wallibo & Duvallés, in the former the river was absorbed for some years, but the gradual accumulation of water burst through the sandy barrier, and carried away many Negro houses in its progress; thirty-two slaves were washed into the sea by the torrent."
Since the eruption of 1812 (see an acct of it in Methodist Magazine for that year), neither the crater nor the exterior of the upper half of the mountain have regained their former luxuriant foliage and verdure: indeed there is a peculiar sort of mossy grass quite stunted in its growth, and in unison with the dreary aspect of the surrounding rocks and lava, which seems to be the only sign of vegetable life exhibited. There is now no conical mount in the old crater surrounded by water, it has totally disappeared, though there is still a brimstone colored reflection from the bottom through the clear water in one particular part which perhaps is only a few fathoms deep: the rest of it is so deep that its color is an invisible green. It is barely possible to descend, the sides of the crater, which some of its visitors have done, and have even had the temerity to enter the water, which is said to be very cold, so that they could not swim long in it. It is not greenish over the surface & corrupt, as stagnant water usually is, but clear and apparently wholesome. Having highly gratified our curiosity in viewing this huge and probably ancient excavation by subterraneous fire, we thought of proceeding further, to see the new one which had been formed within the recollection and the great terror of many of the present inhabitants, not a few of whom at the time thought the "end of the world & the day of judgement" at hand, and crowds of people occupied our chapel in Kingstown inquiring after Christ and salvation. No doubt many, purely from fear. We walked along to some distance & passed by the edge of the old crater, narrow enough! the sides steep, and dangerous because high and slippery, and from the extreme haziness it was not for some time improbable but that the latter part of our labor would prove in vain. On the point of leaving and with some reluctance too, it was observed that a strong breeze was clearing the mist out of the new crater & thus at length we had a full view for about five minutes. The interior of this, seemed to be more picturesque than the other, the sides being more perpendicular and diversified: though it was much smaller. The bottom of it is not entirely covered with water, but there is a deep muddy pool near one side. It is said there is most convincing evidence of internal fires, but we saw none. Indeed the weather was much against us, we were cold & wet, and it was desirable to re-trace our steps as soon as possible. Several of us selected specimens of lava, which is very coarse and when compared with some from Vesuvius seems to be devoid of metallic particles. We prepared to descend, and soon ceased to feel the cool & bracing temperature of the mountain top, and as quickly lost the physical energy it imparted as we approached the sultry vallies [sic] and the sun-burnt beach. About 2 P.M. we dismissed our horses & mules, took leave of our friend Fortemaison & entered our canoe; and between 4 & 5 arrived at Princes Town, a pretty figure, from rain & mud. Ashamed to put in at the usual landing place, I steered to the bushes on the leeward side of the town and we sought a private path to the Mission House. We dined together at the house of a friend & about 7 Mr Rathbone preached a short sermon.
3rd June/26. Our friends returned to Town, and we were once more left to ourselves, and to the proper objects of our mission.
4th Lord's-day. Went in the circuit canoe to Chateau-belair & preached twice to large congregations. Had a good day & hope that my labor was made a blessing to the people. After morning service I met the Catechumens under a tree; and then gave Tickets in the chapel. In the evening a person was present, who on a former occasion not long ago behaved very rudely. This time he seemed to be serious. May his heart be turned from the love of sin to the service of God!
11th Sabbath. Preached at Layou, gave Tickets, superintended the S. school; formed a little company of catechumens at an Estate 1½ mile distant (Palmiste Park) and preached there in the evening. It was a profitable day, the Lord was with me & I hope for success, in fruit of my labor.
18th June/26. Sabbath: - having yesterday come to town, I preached twice today to large congregations, and with a good degree of enjoyment. Gave a great many Tickets to members of Society, chiefly slaves who cannot attend at any other time than Sunday after morning service.
19th Had to return to the usual every days [sic] employments at Leeward. Travelling so much by sea, and often in bad weather, is very unpleasant, and to be qualified to take pleasure in it, independently of spiritual and humane motives, would require one to be half amphibious. Blessed be God I can praise Him at all times, and calmly survey the rolling deep, even when it is boiling frightfully and tossing our frail bark like a cork: so frail that no part of it is capable of much hardship, not exceeding an inch in the thickness, though strengthened with "timbers" at intervals of two or three feet.
25th June/26. Sabbath - Preached again at Layou, the house well filled; and afterwards had a good lovefeast. It was a profitable day. Have heard of revivals of religion in our dear native land, particularly in the Town of Manchester. May the people more generally "Know the time of their visitation".
26th This morning an official communication from the Mission House arrived by the Packet instructing the brethren on this island to re-commence the marrying of Slaves - a part of their gratuitous labor which some had endeavoured to hinder under pretext that the "Vestry Act" prohibited it. If opposition is continued, the question is to be tried in a court of law. May wisdom from on high direct us! An anonymous writer under the signature of Vigilarius has gazetted some mistakes which will affect our Mission. 1st That the Caribs have never received instruction nor been visited by a missionary. This is incorrect; as Mr Baxter went into their own quarter of the island, as a missionary to the Charaibs, previous to the insurrection among then, & a person who accompanied him is yet living & a leader in Kingstown Society. Besides I have repeatedly visited the black Charaibs at Morne Rhonde myself, and some of them attend at Chateau-belair. A whole settlement of them at Lauder-wood are [sic] within four miles of Union Chapel and some do attend there, one of whom is in Society. There is another part of them, chiefly of the yellow, or red as they are indifferently called settled on the ridge near Grand Sable, and they are not two miles from our chapel at Mount-Young. 2nd Vigilarius asserts that the sum of £4000 currency or £1733.6.8 sterling per 4/4 Spanish dollar of 10/- currency, - is obtained by the missionaries here from the "Negro population!" Perhaps this is an article got up for England to make people believe that the Negro slaves are sufficiently taught, and rich enough to remunerate their teachers! Who can believe this? Most of our enemies;- at the same time it may be only just to add that few, if any, are found who will not admit that great good has been done by the Wesleyan Missionaries.